The Metal Guide

The Metal Guide

Gold, in every colour it comes.

Every Diamos piece is made in gold: eighteen, fourteen or nine karat, in yellow, white or rose. The gold is most of what you hold. It decides how a piece wears, how it feels in the hand and how it ages.

9 chaptersEvery piece BIS hallmarkedBegin reading

Gold, by the numbers

75%pure gold in 18 karat
58.5%pure gold in 14 karat
37.5%pure gold in 9 karat

Every piece is tested and hallmarked by the Bureau of Indian Standards. How to check it

01 · The colours

Three golds

All three are gold of the same purity. Their colour comes from the metals it is alloyed with.

Yellow gold

Yellow gold

Gold alloyed with silver and copper, keeping its natural warmth. The most traditional of the three, and the one that sets a white diamond in sharpest relief.

White gold

White gold

Gold alloyed with palladium and silver, then finished in rhodium for a bright, cool white. The metal recedes, and the stone takes the light.

Rose gold

Rose gold

Gold with a greater share of copper, which lends it a soft blush. Flattering against every skin tone, and quietly romantic beside a colourless stone.

02 · Purity

Eighteen, fourteen, nine

Karat counts gold in twenty-fourths. Pure gold, at twenty-four, is too soft to hold a diamond for long, so fine jewellery is made in alloys. Each of ours is chosen for a different life.

18K

750  ·  75% gold

The richest colour and the greatest share of gold. A little softer than the others, with a satisfying weight in the hand, and the gentlest on sensitive skin.

Chosen forHeirlooms, engagement rings, sensitive skin, pieces worn with care

In the hand
About 18% heavier than 14K
Wear
The softest of the three
The alloy, in parts per hundred
Yellow
75 gold, 12.5 silver, 12.5 copper
White
75 gold, 13 palladium, 12 silver
Rose
75 gold, 22 copper, 3 silver

14K

585  ·  58.5% gold

The balance of colour, strength and value. Hard enough for a ring worn every day, with a warm, true gold tone.

Chosen forEngagement and wedding rings, earrings, everyday pieces

In the hand
The reference weight
Wear
Hard, for daily wear
The alloy, in parts per hundred
Yellow
58.5 gold, 15 silver, 26.5 copper
White
58.5 gold, 25 silver, 12 palladium, 4.5 copper
Rose
58.5 gold, 32 copper, 9.5 silver

9K

375  ·  37.5% gold

The hardest-wearing and lightest of the three, with a paler, more delicate colour. Made for pieces that live an active life.

Chosen forEveryday stacking, active hands, sport and hands-on work, lighter budgets

In the hand
About 15% lighter than 14K
Wear
The hardest-wearing
The alloy, in parts per hundred
Yellow
37.5 gold, 22.5 silver, 37.5 copper, 2.5 zinc
White
37.5 gold, 50 silver, 10 palladium, 2.5 copper
Rose
37.5 gold, 50 copper, 12.5 silver

Alloy figures are representative; every refiner's recipe differs slightly.

Why not twenty-two?

Twenty-two karat, 91.6% gold, is the traditional gold of Indian jewellery and beautiful in plain gold. Pure gold, at twenty-four, is softer still. Both bend and wear too readily to hold a diamond securely, so for anything set with stones we stop at eighteen.

Higher is not always better

More gold brings a richer colour, more weight and more value in the metal. Less gold gives a harder, lighter piece at a gentler price. Each karat is the right answer for someone.

Karat and carat

Karat, written K, is the purity of gold. Carat, written ct, is the weight of a gemstone. They share a root, the carob seed once used for weighing, but measure different things.

A rose gold diamond necklace, worn
A white gold pendant set with a pear-shaped diamond

03 · White gold

A finish that can be renewed

White gold owes its brightness to a fine plating of rhodium, a rare white metal of the platinum family. On a ring worn every day, the plating softens over a year or two where the metal meets the world, and a warmer tone begins to show beneath.

This is the nature of the metal rather than a flaw. A fresh plating, with a clean and polish, returns it to its first brilliance in about a day.

A ring worn daily
Re-plated every twelve to twenty-four months
Earrings and pendants
Rarely need it at all
Prefer it unplated?
Any piece can be made without rhodium, in a softer, warmer white

We alloy our white gold with palladium and silver, never nickel.

White gold, over time

Two years on one finger

Draw the line across the ring. On the left, white gold after a couple of years of daily wear, the warmer gold showing through. On the right, the same ring freshly plated.

After wearA year or two, daily
Re-platedIn about a day

After wearThe rhodium softens where the ring meets the world, and a warmer tone shows.

Re-platedA fresh plating, with a clean and polish, returns its first brilliance.

An illustration: the worn side is tinted to show the effect.

04 · Assurance

The hallmark

Karat cannot be seen. Every Diamos piece is therefore tested by an independent assaying centre licensed by the Bureau of Indian Standards, and struck with three marks.

The BIS mark

Tested by a licensed assaying centre, not by the jeweller.

18K750

Purity

The karat, and its gold content in parts per thousand.

AB12C3

HUID

A six-character code belonging to that piece alone.

To verify a piece, enter its HUID in the Bureau of Indian Standards' BIS CARE app, under "Verify HUID". It returns the purity, the type of article and the jeweller it was registered to. The marks shown here are an illustration.

05 · Value

Gold that keeps its worth

The lasting value of a piece is the pure gold within it, which follows its weight and its karat. A ring of four grams in fourteen karat holds 2.34 grams of pure gold. Made in eighteen karat, the same design weighs a little more and holds over three and a half.

When you exchange a Diamos piece, we credit the full value of that gold, at the day's rate, for as long as you own it.

Our lifetime exchange
One design, four grams in 14K
Pure gold
In 18K 4.7 g
3.53 g
In 14K 4.0 g
2.34 g
In 9K 3.4 g
1.28 g
A woman wearing a diamond necklace and rings

06 · Care

Living with gold

Gold does not rust or tarnish, which is why it passes so easily between generations. It asks only a little care.

  • Last on, first off. Put jewellery on after perfume and lotion, and take rings off for the gym, the garden and heavy work.
  • Away from chlorine. Pool water and household bleach can weaken the alloy over time. This is the one rule worth keeping strictly.
  • Kept apart. Store each piece in its own pouch or a lined box, so diamonds cannot mark the gold.
  • Cleaned gently. Warm water, a drop of mild soap and a soft brush, then rinse and pat dry. Nothing abrasive, and no ultrasonic cleaners at home.
  • Seen once a year. Bring it to us and we will check the claws, clean and polish it.
The complete care guide

07 · The workshop

How we make ours

Every design can be made in any of our three golds and three karats. Each is made to order, and passes through many pairs of hands before it reaches yours.

  1. I

    The model

    Each design begins as a precise wax model. Waxes are joined onto a central stem, a casting tree, so many pieces can be cast at once.

  2. II

    Casting

    The tree is set in plaster and the wax melted out, leaving a perfect mould. Gold of your chosen karat and colour is poured in to take its place.

  3. III

    At the bench

    Each piece is filed, assembled and polished by hand. Stones are set one at a time, every claw pushed and shaped around its diamond. White gold is then plated in rhodium.

  4. IV

    Hallmarked

    Before it reaches you, the piece goes to a BIS-licensed assaying centre, where its gold is tested and it is marked with its purity and its own HUID.

Questions

Which karat should I choose?

For an engagement ring or anything worn daily, most of our clients choose fourteen karat for its balance of colour and strength. Eighteen karat gives the richest colour and is kindest to sensitive skin. Nine karat is the hardest-wearing and the most accessible.

Is nine karat real gold?

Yes. It is 37.5% pure gold and hallmarked like every other karat. It is paler and lighter than fourteen or eighteen, and harder wearing.

Why does my white gold look warmer than it did?

The rhodium plating has worn where the ring meets the world, and the gold beneath is showing. A fresh plating restores the bright white.

Is rose gold suitable for sensitive skin?

Most people wear it without any trouble. It contains more copper, which a small number of people react to; eighteen karat, with less copper, is the gentler choice.

Can I have white gold without rhodium plating?

Yes. Ask us when you order. Unplated white gold has a softer, slightly warm grey tone, and never needs re-plating.

Will my gold tarnish?

Gold itself does not tarnish. The other metals in lower karats can occasionally darken a little with some skin chemistry or chlorine, but this cleans away.

Can a design be made in another gold?

Yes. Every Diamos design can be made in yellow, white or rose gold, in nine, fourteen or eighteen karat.

How do I check the hallmark?

Find the six-character HUID on the piece and enter it in the BIS CARE app under "Verify HUID".

Glossary of terms
Alloy
A mix of metals. All gold jewellery is an alloy of gold with other metals.
Assaying
Testing a metal to establish exactly what it contains.
BIS
The Bureau of Indian Standards, which sets and licenses gold hallmarking in India.
Casting
Making a piece by pouring molten metal into a mould taken from a wax model.
Claw
A small metal prong that holds a stone in place.
Fineness
Purity in parts per thousand. Eighteen karat is 750 fine.
Hallmark
Marks struck on gold by an independent centre to certify its purity.
HUID
Hallmark Unique Identification: a six-character code unique to each hallmarked piece.
Karat
Gold purity in twenty-fourths. Twenty-four karat is pure gold.
Palladium
A white metal of the platinum family, used to whiten gold.
Rhodium
A hard, very white metal of the platinum family, used to plate white gold.
Re-plating
Renewing the rhodium on white gold once it has worn.
Shank
The band of a ring, the part that encircles the finger.